I'll admit it - I'm a fan of dry Riesling. Sure, I like the sweet ones, too, but a good, crisp dry Riesling can be just as thrilling as an unctuous, honeyed nectar of a late harvest wine. The problem with dry Riesling is that the grape's naturally high sugars and high acidity - the very qualities that make it so versatile - are a danger. Winemakers trying to produce a "dry" Riesling to cater to market demand risk disrupting the delicate balance between sugar and acidity that make Riesling so exciting.
To be honest, I don't care about a wine's residual sugar, acid levels or pH. That's the stuff for wine geeks and German winemakers named "Doktor." But I do appreciate a good Riesling when those harmonic forces come into balance.
The Gobelsburger Riesling 2007, from Schloss Gobelsburg in Austria, is a delightfully dry Riesling. With light body and great acidity, it tastes like a cornucopia of tropical fruit, with some vibrant citrus notes. It makes a great partner to Riesling brauten, a beef roast marinated and braised in Riesling, or more expected seafood dishes.
(A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines.)