Randall Grahm is a restless soul, who seems incapable of settling down and just being contented with what he's accomplished. Which is probably good news for fans of his Bonny Doon wines, for he is always looking for something new, some way to improve. But of course, if we love his wines, there's always the danger he'll get bored and change a favorite out from under us.
That happened with his 2009 Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare, his popular rose that year after year has been one of my favorite pink wines from California. The 2009 is much paler than usual, and Randall explained why when I met him at a recent Rhone Rangers tasting in Washington DC. It's also his first Demeter-certified Biodynamic pink wine.
Oh, but don't despair - the new Vin Gris de Cigare is terriffic. Different from what you might expect if you've been a fan of previous vintages, but terrific. Taste for yourself!
And for good measure, here's a link to my interview with Randall Grahm under a streetlight on a dark sidestreet near Dupont Circle last September, when he furtively came to town hawking his new book, Been Doon So Long. Of course, the book since won a James Beard Award, so he doesn't need to be furtive about it anymore.