Dave McIntyre's WineLine

The Annual Thanksgiving Conundrum

Thanksgiving is coming, which means wine writers across the country are telling you to worry about what wines will clash with the cranberry sauce. To which I always say, "open one of everything" and turn the feast into a food-wine pairing clinic. But if you can't or won't do that, I offer some guidelines in today's Washington Post Food section. Also, I suggest some wines to pair with the Food section's Thanksgiving menus, including an all-American selection ranging from Argentina to Canada (and points in between).

 

Sweet on Local Dessert Wines

When exploring the greatly improving local wine scene, it's easy to focus on dry table wines - the most dramatic improvement - and lose sight of dessert wines. Stickies have always been a staple of local wines, but they are improving too. Check out my column in this week's Washington Post  Food secction for a story of innovation and wines that are often overlooked. As Jim Law of Linden Vineyards says, "They demand your attention, but they come at a point in the dinner when no one wants to pay attention."

This is my final column in a month-long series about local wines - well, sort of. It seems my local focus has ruffled some feathers among readers, so next week I'll answer charges that I've been "pandering" to local winemakers. Stay tuned ...

Wines from Where?

Wines are now made in all 50 states - but would you know that by looking at a typical wine list or store shelf?

Andrew Stover, the hyper-energetic millenial generation sommelier at two hip Washington D.C. restuarants, is trying to change that perception. Working with a D.C.-area distributor, Stover is bringing high-quality and high-value wines from aorund the US to the DC-area market. These include Arizona Stronghold from Cochise County, Arizona, and Sawtooth Vineyards from the Snake River Valley in Idaho.

Let go your prejudices. I did - I'd never heard of Maynard James Keenan, the rock star behind Arizona Strongholds. I didn't let that stop me from appreciating these delightful wines.

You can read more about it in my wine column in The Washington Post.

Bruce Here's in Charge of the Sheep Dip

When I posted yesterday’s defense of my wine pricing on The Washington Post Food section’s blog, several commenters rallied to my defense. Their support is much appreciated. But I couldn’t leave one comment, from someone called “sheepherder,” on the Internet without a challenge. Not so much because sheepherder would like to herd me into oblivion, but because the criticism leveled is so wrong and ill-informed that I could not leave it alone.

Here’s is sheepherder’s lament:

Mr Mcintyre should be shown the door at the WP. He reviews are wrose than his predecessors and don't hold a candle to Ben's.

If the WP keeps him he needs to concentrate more on VA and MD wines and throw in East Coast wines for good measure. At least one column a month should concentrate on local wines only. You have more than enough material for 3 local wine columns a month and tastings. With all hoopola over eating local the Food section of the WP needs to get with it and concentrate on local wines along with local produce, local cheese and local meat especially locally raised lamb! And lets not forget the stock dogs that work local livestock. Nothing beats watching a a good herding dog moving 500+ sheep and lambs on beautiful spring morning with fog just lifting.

Posted by: sheepherder | May 28, 2009 7:26 AM | Report abuse

(Sheepherder was referring in his nostalgia to Ben Giliberti, who wrote the Post wine column for 20 years and rarely, if ever, wrote about local wines. I believe this is the first published comment I’ve seen since I took over the column last October wishing for the old days. Some sort of milestone, I guess.)

And here is my reply, posted on Sunday, as soon as I saw the comment:

Oh, Sheepherder, wake up and smell the sheep dip. I've written more about local wines in my eight months with the Post than anyone ever has, including Ben (who doesn't like local wines, by the way). Remember my recent column on Virginia Viognier? My column about local wines in October (and my creation - with a friend - of the DrinkLocalWine.com Web site and "Regional Wine Week")? Or that I recommended Virginia wines for Thanksgiving, including them along with wines from elsewhere because they are good enough not to be treated as novelty items anymore? I reported on Jim Law's shift to lighter bottles at Linden, and I included Virginia in my recent column on US Sauvignon Blanc. Did you see Mary Jordan's fine piece about Virginia wines wowing the British vinoscenti at the recent London International Wine Fair? It was published merely ONE DAY before you posted your comment. Who do you think alerted her that Virginia wineries were coming to London?

You have seen plenty of coverage of local wines and the local wine scene in my columns - and you will continue to, if you pay attention.

Thanks for reading - and thanks to everyone else for the kind words and support. I appreciate all feedback, including negative (as long as it's justified, which sheepherder's complaint is not.)

Cheers,
Dave Mc

Posted by: DaveMcIntyre | May 31, 2009 12:43 PM | Report abuse

And here are the columns I’ve written for The Washington Post since I took over the wine column last October 1 that either feature or mention local or regional wines:

October 8: Local Vintner’s Grow Respect

October 15: Some Rules Are Made to Be Broken (I have to fix this link – a Virginia wine was featured in a column on unusual blends.)

November 19: The Annual Puzzle of What to Pour (Virginia wines included in Thanksgiving wine recommendations.)

December 24: When it Pays to Be a Lightweight (Linden Vineyards featured in discussion of wineries switching to lighter bottles.)

January 7: How to Put Riesling Fears to Rest (New York and Canadian Riesling featured.)

April 1: A Grape Virginia Vintners Can Love

May 13: Sauvignon Blanc’s American Makeover (Virginia Sauvignon Blancs touted.)

And one extra:

May 27: Virginia Makes Wines? Yes, and London Likes Them (By Post London Correspondent Mary Jordan. Unfortunately, I was unable to go to London for the International Wine Fair, but I did alert Mary to the idea of a fun story that would resonate back home, and she did a terrific job. I hope she got to taste the wines!)

Cave Spring Riesling "CSV" 2007, Niagara $28

Niagara-on-the-Lake is known for its ice wines, and Cave Spring Cellars makes some mighty fine ones. But the region also excels in table wines, especially Riesling, and I'm especially excited that a few producers are making the effort to jump through the regulatory hoops in the various U.S. states and market their wines "south of the border," as it were.

Cave Spring has several Rieslings available in the Mid-Atlantic region, most notably an off-dry wine simply called Niagara Riesling. The CSV is a single-vineyard wine from the Beamsville Bench, the prime vineyard land that stretches across the mid-slope of the Niagara peninsula, from vines more than 30 years old. It is medium-dry, according to , but it tastes dry because of its fine acid/sugar balance, the hallmark of well-made Riesling. It is fine and delicate in a style that remindes me of the stylish wines of the Mittelrhein in Germany. It is not cheap, and it is not plentiful. But it is a lovely wine, with hints of talc and exotic fruits. Its flavors are haunting, like a beautiful woman's perfume that lingers long after the elevator door has closed.

Cave Spring is distributed in Maryland and Washington, D.C., by Boutique Vineyards of Annapolis, Md.

For more Riesling recommendations, see my January 7 column in The Washington Post.