Dave McIntyre's WineLine

Some Bargain Fizz for the Not-So-Jolly Holidays

Holidays can be less than jolly in tough times. But before we all endulge our inner Scrooge, we should remember that Tiny Tim's impoverished family, the Cratchits, celebrated even in the leanest of times. So even though we may not want to splurge on expensive Champagne this holiday season, there is still plenty of good, relatively cheap fizz available for our holiday toasts. God bless them, everyone!

You can read my recommendations in this week's Washington Post Food section, or on my Web site, dmwineline.com.

Cheers!

A Delightful (and Cheap!) Italian Pinot

With the world economy flushing itself down the toilet, wine lovers are indulging ourselves in our second favorite pursuit - finding wines that taste more expensive than they cost. (As opposed to our most favorite sport - scoring the rare artisanal wine no one else has ever heard of, no matter the cost.)

In looking for inexpensive wines that provide some measure of excitement, I didn't expect to find many pinot noir. And I certainly did not expect to find an Italian pinot noir. Most Italian pinot nero are quite pricey, and not always worth the expense. But the Monte Degli Angeli Pinot Noir 2006, from Monferratto in northwestern Italy, is a surprise. It begins with a slightly pruney, raisiny nose, then yields to a bright, cherry-plum palate that ends with stony, mineral tannins and a long finish. It's deceptively good - better with each taste. And at $9, a steal.

(Imported by Monsieur Touton, NY NY.)

A Tale of Two Barberas

I tried two inexpensive Barberas tonight that make me want to explore more of this food-friendly wine  variety.

The first, Castelvero Barbera 2006 Piemonte($12, Vias Imports, NY), is a fruit-forward, grapey wine that reminds me of Beaujolais Nouveau in weight, texture and almost flavor. While it seems simple, it has decent length and a hint of complexity that matches well with a tomatoey pasta sauce. Fun and delish.

The second wine was Produttori di Govone Barbera d’Alba Superiore ($14, Dionysus, Lorton VA). While a tad more expensive, it is more classic in its flavor profile. Deep in color and flavor, with a hint of mushroom and soy. And yet there’s a clear note of boysenberry on the gritty, tannic finish. This excellent wine will improve for the next 2-3 years, I’ll wager.