Dave McIntyre's WineLine

Regional Wines Showcased in DC

 

Local and regional wines were in the spotlight at the Masters of Food and Wine event early this month. It was the Park Hyatt Washington’s second time participating in this event, which occurs throughout the year at several of the hotel chain’s outposts around the world.

The hotel’s beverage director, German Broggi, who came to the District last summer, has developed an entire page of Virginia wines for the Park Hyatt’s restaurant, Blue Duck Tavern, and he made sure local vintners were well represented in the three-day event.

The opening reception on Blue Duck’s small patio along 24th Street NW on June 2 (luckily, before our heatwave began) was crowded as partygoers met and mingled with Jeff White of Glen Manor Vineyards, Emily Pelton of Veritas, Jason Burrus of Rappahannock Cellars, and Rachel Martin of Boxwood — three of Virginia’s top wineries. Barboursville’s Luca Paschina held court among the crowd in advance of a winemaker’s dinner he hosted later that evening. 

The Masters event was not entirely local, of course. Such famous names as Caymus, Duckhorn and Jordan were represented. One enthusiastic fan gushed to me after stopping at Alma Rosa’s table, “Oh my gosh, that’s Richard Sanford! He’s a pioneer!”(Sanford planted the first pinot noir vines in the Santa Rita Hills area of Santa Barbara County back in the 1970s.)

At the Barboursville dinner, Paschina poured two vintages of his viognier reserve to support his belief that viognier ages well and should not be consumed too young. The 2002 was rich and unctuous and deep golden in color, but I still preferred the crisper, fresher 2009, which showed the flowery aromas and austere structure that makes Barboursville one of my favorite viogniers year after year. Perhaps nine years is a little too long for aging it, but the richness of the 2002 did pair nicely with chef Brian McBride’s lobster dish. (I also attended the wonderful America Farm to Table dinner the next night, with guest chef Brian Huston from The Publican in Chicago. The kitchen staff in Blue Duck Tavern was magnificent both nights.)

The highlight wine of the evening, however, was the Octagon, Barboursville’s signature wine. This merlot-based Bordeaux blend was showing beautifully in the 2001 and 2006 vintages, bolstering Paschina’s argument that Virginia can consistently produce world-class wine.

Other local wines shared the spotlight on Friday. After a brief appearance on News Channel 8’s “Let’s Talk Live” (see above) that morning, I conducted a small tasting of 10 Virginia and Maryland wines for about a dozen people at the Park Hyatt. The idea was to showcase some of the region’s best wines in a setting more congenial than the typical summer wine festival — after all, barrel-fermented anything doesn’t taste very good in 100-degree heat. (The link is to a writeup of the tasting on BrightestYoungThings.com, which definitely marks a first for me.)

My guests enjoyed some unusual wines, such as the Chester Gap 2009 Petit Manseng, as well as more traditional offerings, such as Black Ankle Vineyards’s excellent 2008 Bordeaux blend called Crumbling Rock, or Michael Shaps’s stunning 2007 Cabernet Franc. The tasting ended with a bang — the Boxwood Winery 2007 Topiary, a 50-50 blend of merlot and cabernet franc that may be hard to find retail now but should still be on some restaurant wine lists. If you can find it, don’t pass it up. The Topiary is drinking beautifully.

Locavore/locapour does not mean focusing exclusively on local wines. It means giving props to the quality wines our local vignerons are producing. And Park Hyatt Washington did exactly that in its annual showcase of our local bounty.

Tour Virginia Wineries By Smartphone

If you’re planning to hit some Virginia wineries this summer, you may want to take them along in your pocket.

Virginia Wine in My Pocket, that is, a new app for iPhone, iPad and iPod Touch that provides information about most of the Old Dominion’s wineries. It’s the brainchild of Virginia travel writers Rick Collier and Nancy Bauer, who indulged in a marathon tour last year, visiting 150 wineries in 150 days. The app costs $3.99 through iTunes and could be an invaluable resource for planning your explorations of local wine country. (The pair has produced a similar app called Rehoboth in My Pocket. An Android version of the Virginia app is in the works.)

The app offers individual listings of wineries, ciderworks and some winery-affiliated restaurants; it includes professional-quality photographs (Collier snapped more than 10,000 during the tour), maps, directions and glowing writeups. The list can be sorted alphabetically or by a winery’s proximity to Charlottesville or Washington D.C. It can even be sorted by a winery’s proximity to Interstate 81, for an impulse stop.

Looking to dine or lodge at a winery? Or for a kid-, pet- or RV-friendly winery? Picnics, group tours or weddings? It’s all here, including hours, cost of a tasting and whether your AT&T phone will be able to pick up a signal. (Note to the editors: Verizon has issues in the mountains, too.)

This app is cool. Tap on the map page, and you can zoom in on any Virginia wine region and then click on a winery’s icon to go directly to its entry. This app is great for planning a trip or even a spontaneous winery visit while driving through the Virginia countryside.

There are some minor problems. Allow the phone to use your location, and each listing tells you how many miles lie between you and that particular winery. But tap through to get directions from the iPhone’s Map app, and the distances are considerably longer.

And don’t expect wine reviews — at least not obvious ones. Every winery here gets glowing praise, whether for its tasting room, its view or its suitability as a wedding venue. You may need to read between the lines to figure out whether the authors think the wine is worth drinking. At Linden Vineyards, for example, they urge us to “buy a case” to gain entry to the winery’s patio (open only to case-club members on weekends). Down the highway at Barrel Oak Winery, the entry is all about the stylish tasting room, TGIF-friendly happy hours and an extensive quote from the winery’s Web site. One winery for good wine, the other for fun. This app has them all. (And in these instances, at least, the authors’ palates are spot-on.)

The Colliers have planted themselves firmly atop the mountain when it comes to travel apps for Virginia wine country, and it will be tough to knock them off their perch. It’s a niche, to be sure, but I can see this app expanding to include more wineries as Virginia’s industry continues to grow, plus craft breweries, distilleries and wine-country eateries, from barbecue to haute cuisine. Just thumbing through the app makes me want to get in my car and explore.

(This post originally appeared on The Washington Post's All We Can Eat blog.)

On Aging New York Rieslings

Can Riesling age? Of course! you say. Anyone who has tasted an old spatlese from the Mosel or trockenbeerenauslese from the Rheingau knows that Riesling can age spectacularly. But what if I directed your attention away from Germany to a younger wine region that is building a modest name for itself with the grape -- say, perhaps, the Finger Lakes in upstate New York? Would you be so quick to answer?

We tend to think of white wines as designed for early consumption, when they are fresh and vibrant. And New York's finest Rieslings are delightful upon release, so most probably don't linger in collectors' cellars. But winemakers tend to be nerdy about such things, so when I visited the Finger Lakes earlier this year, I had the pleasure of experiencing two vertical tastings of several vintages with the winemakers.

The first was Peter Bell, the talented winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards in Penn Yan, on the northwestern side of Seneca Lake. Bell poured nine wines. Five were dry -- starting with the 2008 Reserve and going back through dry Rieslings from 2007, 2006, 2003 and 2001. The 2008 Reserve was rich and focused, showing the lime flavor and bracing acidity that is increasingly defining the Finger Lakes signature for Riesling. The 2007, from a hot year, seemed more advanced and petrolly, a characteristic Deutchophiles would appreciate. The 2001 had turned tropical, exhibiting mango, orange and pineapple flavors.

Bell's second flight featured four sweeter wines, including the delicious Fox Run Riesling 2008, which I recommended in yesterday's column. This was followed by the 2006 Reserve and the 2004 and 2001 Rieslings. (Like most Finger Lakes wineries, Fox Run makes several Rieslings with varying levels of sweetness. Fortunately, Fox Run and many others have begun indicating the sweetness levels on the label.) The sugar helped these wines age; my favorite was the exotic 2004, while the '01 had taken on an appealing nutty character.

The second tasting occurred a few days later over dinner at Red Newt Cellars, a winery and bistro combination located in Hector, on Seneca Lake's east side. Red Newt is the creation of the talented husband-and-wife team of David and Debra Whiting -- he makes the wine, while she helms the bistro with fresh, locally sourced food. (Debra made her reputation with cheesecake, so save room for dessert.)

Over dinner for about two dozen paying guests, David Whiting served three vintages of his Reserve Riesling, 2008, 2006 and 2003. "These were the best three vintages of the last 10 years, and also the coolest," he said. Of those vintages, 2008 was slightly warmer and produced a softer, more supple wine, while 2003, the coolest, yielded a more austere wine. In true Goldilocks fashion, I preferred the '06, which was spicy, citrusy, fat and luscious.

So if you find some older New York Rieslings in your cellar, don't despair. They might be settling in for the long haul.

(Originally posted on The Washington Post's All We Can Eat blog on Sept. 30.)

Wine vs. Beer Smackdown!

Wine lovers can spend hours debating wine-food pairings (just one reason we are so boring to our children), and there are certain meals we dismiss as "beer food." These are usually spicy or cheap, and casual - in other words, unsophisticated foods.

But beer is becoming increasingly refined, and matching beer with food can be as subtle and complex as wine. This point was driven home last weekend at a Wine vs. Beer Smackdown staged by the Neighborhood Restaurant Group at the Columbia Firehouse in Old Town Alexandria.

Wine director Juliana Santos and beer sommelier Greg Santos each selected pairings for six dishes, and about 80 guests sweltering in an upstairs loft at the restaurant were asked to compare how each beverage fared. As a wine lover, I was naturally biased towards Santos's interesting selections, which included some small-production wines offered by top-notch importers such as Terry Theise and Jonas Gustafsson. But beer had the advantage of the unexpected.

"Beer makers are really starting to act like winemakers, and that is resulting in beers that are fascinating to pair with food," Engert said. "They are regressing to pre-industrial techniques, before stainless steel cleaned everything up for nice simple beers ideal for drinking with wings." those borrowed techniques include barrel aging reserve beers, he said.

Here are my quick notes from the smack down as I pushed my way through the eager crowds at each table.

1. Tomato, watermelon, and sheep's milk feta, paired with Bodegas O'Ventosela "Vina Leirina" 2008 from Rueda, Spain, and 1809 Professor Fritz Briem & Bayerische Staatsbrauerei Weihenstephan, Bavaria, Germany. The beer here had an unfair advantage, in that Engert mixed it with a splash or raspberry syrup that matched beautifully with the watermelon. The wine tasted thin and acidic in comparison. Advantage, BEER.

2. Tuna Tartare tacos, paired with Gobelsburg Riesling, 2009, Kamptal, Austria, and Hennepin Brewery Ommegang, New York. The beer picked up nicely on the fennel and apple in the tartare, while the Riesling jazzed with the citrusy dressing.  DRAW.

3. Maryland Shoat Porchetta, with Belle Pente 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, and Schlafly Bière de Garde, Saint Louis Brewery and Schlafly Tap Room, Missouri. Pork and Pinot - a divine combo, and this biodynamic wine shined with the shoat and its stuffing. The beer actually reminded me of my home brew experiments from 15 years ago. Advantage, WINE.

4. Dry aged roast beef and buttermilk blue cheese, with Conceito Tinto, 2007,  Douro, Portugal, and Oerbier, Brouwerij de Dolle, Belgium. The beer's richness, at 9% alcohol, matched well with the cheese, and won my wife's vote. I preferred the wine for how it reflected the flavors of the beef. DRAW.

5. Charcuterie, with Cavoletto Dolcetto d'Alba "Vigna Scot" 2007, Piemonte, Italy, and Aecht Schlenkerla Märzen, Brauesrei Heller-Trum, Upper Franconia, Germany. The beer was smoked, which made it taste to me like a burnt-down house. The Dolcetto, on the other hand, may be God's own pairing with salami. Advantage, WINE.

6. Pecan Joy Candy Bars, with Domaine du Mas Blanc, 2007 Banyuls, France, and Coton, The Bruery, California. This dessert was so good that the matching became incredibly fun. The beer matched the richness of the gussied up candy bar, making me want more, while the wine melded seemlessly with the fruitier aspects of the coconut and the chocolate, signalling that the meal was over. Since I finished mine with the beer, I had to have another dessert. That one, I finished with the wine. DRAW.

So I guess I give a slight advantage to the wine in this contest, which given my bias may be expected. But I would gladly place my beverage selection in the hands of either Santos or Engert after enjoying the thoughtful and challenging selections for this wine-beer smack down.

Now, where was Bobby Flay?

Momentum for Local Wine ...

The "drink local" movement is gaining steam. When my buddy Jeff Siegel, aka The Wine Curmudgeon, received a press release last week touting a dinner with cookbook author Diana Kennedy to be held next month at the Modern Museum of Modern Art in Fort Worth, he immediately asked the organizers if Texas or Mexican wines would be among the "carefully selected" wines for the Mexican menu. The museum's chef emailed him that although the menu had not been finalized, Texas wines would be involved. Maybe Mexican wines, too.

In April, the Park Hyatt in Washington added a Virginia winery to its Masters of Food and Wine program after I criticized the all-California selection for an event touting regional Mid-Atlantic agriculture. The Lettuce Entertainment restaurant group did the same for a Chesapeake Bay-themed dinner at their Wildfire restaurant in Tyson's Corner, Va, scheduled for July 27. Once I inquired about it, they quickly lined up Barboursville Vineyards as a co-sponsor and featured winery for the dinner.

The message is getting some big media play, too. Jon Bonne wrote about "justifying local wine" in the San Francisco Chronicle - "local" meaning California, of course. And Steve Heimoff, a senior editor and very distinguished wine writer with Wine Enthusiast magazine, recently blogged about a plea from a vintner for wine lovers to support their local wineries to help them through hard times. Heimoff lives in California wine country, and "local" for him also means California wine, but the message translates. The vintner Heimoff cited was Oded Shakked of Longboard Vineyards, who criticized restaurants for touting their local produce but ignoring local wines.

And that is precisely the message Todd Kliman eloquently espouses in a withering essay posted last week on The Daily Beast. In "The Locavore Wine Hypocrisy," Kliman takes on some of the most famous restaurants in the country for talking a good local game on their menus and not following through on their wine lists.

Here's an excerpt:

"... if these are heady days for the local cheesemaker, butcher, and farmer, they're head-scratching days for the local vintner, who has been largely shut out of the feel-good foodie fad. If the wine lists at the country's most prominent locavore restaurants tell us anything, it's that 'what grows together, goes together'—the mantra of the movement—is meant to refer to what's on the plate, not what's in the glass. Local and regional wines are seldom to be found."

Kliman, the food and wine editor of Washingtonian magazine and author of the tremendous new book, The Wild Vine, rips apart the most common excuse for ignoring local wines - that they are too expensive and better values abound from California. Chefs are willing to pay extra for organic eggs from chickens just up the road, he points out. And sommeliers are supposed to align their wine lists with the chef's menu, even if it means a little extra work to suss out the better wines from the area. But many somms seem unwilling to take a chance on local wines that don't seem trendy.

"The idealism of their mission statements notwithstanding, what locavore restaurants are telling us is that quality matters much less than cachet when it comes to assembling a wine list—the perception that a given product is the best, most exquisite example in its class," Kliman writes.

Maybe once local wines gain a little more cachet, the sommeliers will wake up. What's interesting to me, however, is that momentum for local wine is coming from writers - bloggers, especially - and consumers, rather than retailers or sommeliers. When I eat out, I want my sommelier to be taking chances and to seek out unusual wines - even if they come from just up the road. Don't treat me with kid gloves - dazzle me.

Park Hyatt in D.C. adds a local winery to its locavore event

After I posted here and on The Washington Post's All You Can Eat blog castigating the Park Hyatt for not including any local wineries in its June Masters of Food & Wine Event celebrating local agriculture, the hotel promptly added one.

The day after my post, representatives of the hotel approached Boxwood Winery in Middleburg, Va., and asked them to participate. The winery immediately accepted, said Rachel Martin, Boxwood's executive director.

The Park Hyatt D.C.'s Blue Duck Tavern is a terrific restaurant, and Chef Brian McBride does a great job featuring local ingredients. Local wines are underrepresented on the list, however, and they were left out of the initial lineup for the June. 

The lineup for the event includes some top-name West Coast wineries, including Brewer-Clifton, Melville, Caymus, and Duckhorn. But for an event celebrating local agriculture, it seemed fitting that at least one local winery should be involved.

Wines from Where?

Wines are now made in all 50 states - but would you know that by looking at a typical wine list or store shelf?

Andrew Stover, the hyper-energetic millenial generation sommelier at two hip Washington D.C. restuarants, is trying to change that perception. Working with a D.C.-area distributor, Stover is bringing high-quality and high-value wines from aorund the US to the DC-area market. These include Arizona Stronghold from Cochise County, Arizona, and Sawtooth Vineyards from the Snake River Valley in Idaho.

Let go your prejudices. I did - I'd never heard of Maynard James Keenan, the rock star behind Arizona Strongholds. I didn't let that stop me from appreciating these delightful wines.

You can read more about it in my wine column in The Washington Post.

Vino Volo: The Only Way to Fly

Waiting for a flight out of Dulles International Airport the other day, I was pleased to see my gate was in Terminal C. That meant I could pass the time at Vino Volo, the best thing to happen to airport food since …. well, ever.

Vino Volo, which has outlets at 10 airports around the country, is a stylish wine bar concept with (at Dulles at least) a modest but fresh and interesting menu and a modest but interesting wine selection. You can buy a glass or a flight of tastes, and even a bottle to take on the plane (you’re through security already!).

While waiting for my flight, I enjoyed a flight of three wines from Miller Wine Works in Napa Valley. Three big red wines, which in their small tastes were delicious and paired well with braised pork tacos. All the tensions of preparing for a trip and getting to the airport and through to the gate evaporated with each sip.

Another laudable point about Vino Volo – each of its stores carries some local wine. So the Vino Volo in San Antonio has some Texas wine on its list, and the Dulles outpost has some from Virginia. For curious and thirsty traveler.

Vino Volo at Washington Dulles International Airport is located near gate C3.

End Maryland's Ban on Direct Shipping!

Could this be the year Maryland residents get the right to order wine online? Hopes are high that the Legislature might finally pass legislation legalizing direct shipping of wine to consumers. I explore this issue in today's column in The Washington Post.

After I wrote this, someone told me only 15% of wines on the market are actually distributed in Maryland through the normal three-tier distribution channels. That is market forces. But why should state law restrict us from reaching out of channels for the others? That's not fair.

What can we do about it? Write to your state delegate or senator in support of direct wine shipping legislation. Support Marylanders for Better Beer and Wine Laws. Post a comment here or on my column on washingtonpost.com. But don't stay silent.

Is Wine No Longer a Luxury?

This week, Wine & Spirits magazine released its 20th annual restaurant wine survey. As usual, the survey is the usual once-a-year kiss-up to Sonoma-Cutrer as the most popular wine brand in American restaurants. But there is a nugget in the teaser to the press release that merits more attention than the release actually gave it:

Data suggests [sic] that fine wine sales remain essentially sound. Diners facing recession consider wine part of the meal rather than an
add-on.

The release contained a quote from a restaurateur that “people are drinking the same amount of wine but spending less.” But then it dropped the point in order to heap praise on the supermarket wine brands that are distributed widely enough to rank highly in a nationwide survey like this.

The release as a whole missed the point of its own data.

It’s no surprise that people are “drinking down” and spending less on a bottle of wine in these tough economic times. But if these data are to be believed – and as suggested in the press release tease but not pursued – we’re not giving wine up altogether. Wine perhaps is no longer a “luxury item” to be enjoyed only on special occasions and deferred in tough times.

“Wine is a necessity of life for me,” Thomas Jefferson once wrote. Maybe Americans are beginning to agree with him.

At least, those of us still affluent enough to dine out.

The 20th annual restaurant wine survey is published in the April issue of Wine & Spirits.