Dave McIntyre's WineLine

The Annual Thanksgiving Conundrum

Thanksgiving is coming, which means wine writers across the country are telling you to worry about what wines will clash with the cranberry sauce. To which I always say, "open one of everything" and turn the feast into a food-wine pairing clinic. But if you can't or won't do that, I offer some guidelines in today's Washington Post Food section. Also, I suggest some wines to pair with the Food section's Thanksgiving menus, including an all-American selection ranging from Argentina to Canada (and points in between).

 

Why Aren't More Local Wines on Local Wine Lists?

This is a question that can probably be asked wherever fine wines are made. In fact, it WAS raised last year in the San Francisco Chronicle, which reported complaints by North Coast vintners about restaurants that touted their local meats and produce but filled their lists with imported wines. Todd Kliman took the debate national this summer with his essay, "The Locavore Wine Hypocrisy," on thedailybeast.com. In today's Washington Post Food section, I look deeper into the question, and find some intriguing arguments on both sides to explain the problem. I also discover some area restaurants that are making the commitment to feature the local vino.

Happy 30th Anniversary to Becky Wasserman!

Becky Wasserman is the grande dame of Burgundy. An American ex-pat, for the past 30 years she has represented many of Burgundy's greatest estates, helping sell their wines to the United States, Britain and elsewhere. Earlier this year, I had the opportunity to visit with Becky in her offices in Beaune, on a cute little side street off a large square. It would have been idyllic except for the street construction that seemed, she said, to go on interminably. As I look out on my own suburban street, torn up for the second summer in a row for some mysterious water main repair, I want to say to Becky, "It's not just the French!"

My profile of Becky appeared in Wednesday's Washington Post. The photo shows Becky with David Croix (left) of Maison Camille Giroud and Jean-Yves Devevey of Domaine Devevey.

Wines from Where?

Wines are now made in all 50 states - but would you know that by looking at a typical wine list or store shelf?

Andrew Stover, the hyper-energetic millenial generation sommelier at two hip Washington D.C. restuarants, is trying to change that perception. Working with a D.C.-area distributor, Stover is bringing high-quality and high-value wines from aorund the US to the DC-area market. These include Arizona Stronghold from Cochise County, Arizona, and Sawtooth Vineyards from the Snake River Valley in Idaho.

Let go your prejudices. I did - I'd never heard of Maynard James Keenan, the rock star behind Arizona Strongholds. I didn't let that stop me from appreciating these delightful wines.

You can read more about it in my wine column in The Washington Post.

A Bouquet of Rosés for Valentines Day

Throughout the Mid-Atlantic, folks are probably celebrating a prolonged Valentines Day - curling up with their loved ones to stay warm after hours outside shoveling snow. There may not be an opportunity to get to a flower shop for the traditional bouquet of roses, but hopefully there is some sparkling rosé in the fridge. And if not, I have a few suggestions up and down the budget range in today's Washington Post Food section.

Sweet Endings for 2009

Earlier this month I wrote two columns for The Washington Post recommending sparkling wines for the holidays - one on wines above $30, the other for more budget-conscious revelers. All the wines were dry. That led one frustrated reader to fire off an e-mail complaining about "brut this and brut that," reminding me that some people prefer sweet sparkling wine.

So this week I oblige, with some delightful recommendations from southern France, Italy and Spain.

Cheers, and thank you for reading Dave McIntyre's WineLine in 2009! What started 10 years ago as an e-mail newsletter (no one called them "blogs" back then) will continue in 2010. You can find me on Facebook at /wineline and Twitter @dmwine as well!

Happy New Year!

Champagne Outside the Envelope

Champagne is too expensive to be an everyday tipple, much as many of us might want to enjoy it on a daily basis. Rather, ít's a special occasion wine, and this often leads us to rely on familiar brand names when we splurge on a bottle of bubbly. While those old favorites - the Veuve Clicquots or Moet & Chandon - are fine and reliable fizz, there is more excitement out there. So this year, I suggest looking either to small grower Champagnes for something distinctive and individual, or to some nice bubbly from other regions. Drink outside the slipper, or the envelope, or whatever cliché you want to recite.

Anway, my recommendations for high quality fizz for those willing to splurge this holiday season are in today's Washington Post. (The online version has more recommendations than the print edition.) I'll have some bargain bubbly recommendations next week.

Cheers!
Dave

Willm Cremant d'Alsace Cuvée Leon IX, $16

What a wonderful value in a sparkling wine! Crémant d'Alsace doesn't give the complexity or richness of Champagne (or the sticker shock, of course), but this example from Willm is top-notch, with great balance and a core of red fruit flavors that yield to a clean, refreshing finish. The package is attractive, too, which means this wine looks and tastes more expensive than it is.

Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection, Ltd., New York, N.Y.

Loredan Gasparini Prosecco, $12

This is the first in a series of posts throughout December on sparkling wines that offer great value for their price.

Loredan Gasparini offers this textbook Prosecco, with delightful apple flavors, surprising depth and refreshing acidity. It picks up an intriguing spice note with Sichuan peppercorns, making me think Prosecco might be a worthwhile partner to Asian cuisines. Chinese restaurants should at least give it a try. Made from organic grapes.

Imported by Dionysus Imports, Lorton, Virginia.

Two Spotlights on Virginia Wine at the White House

Last week's White House state dinner featured Virginia wine in two ways – one positive, one … well, not so positive. As I blogged last week, the sparkling wine served with dessert and for the exchange of toasts between President Obama and Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh was the Thibaut-Janisson Brut de Chardonnay from the Monticello AVA near Charlottesville. But this sweet kudo for Virginia sparkling wine was quickly overshadowed by the sensational story of the White House gate crashers.

Turns out the couple who traipsed uninvited into the White House that night were Tareq and Michaela Salahi, of Oasis Vineyards in Virginia's Fauquier County. Oasis is one of Virginia's oldest wineries and has specialized in sparkling wine, with mixed success. The winery was founded and is owned by Tareq's parents, who have been embroiled in a nasty public dispute with their son over the disposition of the winery – they wanted to sell it when the debts piled too high. (The winery is now shuttered and not open for business.) And Tareq and Michaela, who definitely qualify for the term “socialites,” have been auditioning for Bravo TV's “Real Housewives of Washington.”

That's enough – I won't go into the details because I start laughing too hard. You can read all about it in The Washington Post, The New York Times and probably any other major media outlet. Let's just say the Salahi story casts an unfortunate light, however indirectly, on the Virginia wine industry – showing a vain and shallow side and stealing the limelight from the very worthy wine served at dinner that night.

Of course, there was another “scandal” about the state dinner, also involving wine. More on that later.

Photo: Tareq and Michaela Salahi with Vice President Joe Biden at the Nov. 24 White House state dinner honoring Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh. From the Salahi’s Facebook page. Joe, dear, watch your hands!